The nose is there to be noticed. Tree-fallen greengage plums, newly baled lucerne hay and prickly hawthorn lead on to richer notes of elderflower, Guadeloupe melon and warm fuzzies brought on by sweet honeysuckle in full flower.
A rich quince reduction, sour black jubes and complexing notes of cinnamon infused apple pie meld temptingly with oven crisp breadcrumbs still too hot to handle.
The palate is the classic silk purse in a sow’s ear. Soft, beguiling and seductive on the outside, it draws you in only to find it firm, militarily commanding and supercilious at the core.
There is an enveloping softness to the texture; mushrooms on toast, creamed sweet corn and fried green tomatoes then a chewed quality to the structure which roughs up the tongue like pineapple skin and polishes the cheeks with lemon-zester phenolics.
A stiff upper lip betrays the edge of acidity while a little alcoholic bravado gives a watch-me-now-Mum assertiveness to the finish.